all buttoned up.

Pitter Smackdown.

We just returned from a week away at my parent's house in B.C.  I'm glad you liked the dress because I wore it twice in that week, which makes it a gigantic success in Melissa Terms.  Plus, I have another one ready to go that I'm going to try and line.  Oooh-Whee. 

So yes, a week away, in part for my sister's wedding (of which I have no pictures) and because we finalized Manny's adoption earlier last month and finally got his traveling papers (more on that later).  Instead of beautiful bride pictures-- of which I should have plenty-- I have pictures of beautiful cherries.  Two varieties-- both lovely, and both producing more than 120 people marching around the yard could eat in a weekend. 

Between wedding prep, rehearsal dinner and post-game gift opening, people stood around eating and spitting.  Loads of my new brother-in-law's family and friends were in town and some of them had never eaten the fruit off the tree before.  Then, when everyone left, it was time to get serious about picking.  And trying to moderate the small children and their intake.  But mostly, picking and pitting.

The night before we left my dad pulled out a pitter (or stoner) that they had acquired from an old family friend.  It was made in West Germany (Westmark brand) in the 60s (I think).  I tried looking for it online and came across similar, but less impressive models.  Apparently Westmark is still in the stoner business and that Germany has a corner on the market, as my search didn't get serious until I searched the term Kirschentkerner.

See what I mean?  Not messing around.  The first thing I said was something like, "that thing would eat Amy's for lunch", which prompted Paul to get out the Flip.  I didn't realize he was filming so that is my dorky voice talking to my dad about 1. a rickety swing in the backyard, and 2. making baby voices at my tiny nephew.  That last bit is a scary shot of Paul's nostrils and bloodshot eyes.  Again, you're welcome. 

Hello Neighbor, Simplicity 2798, and Three More Helpful Hints

I will not leave you hanging.  This is the mini dress (but not so mini) from Simplicity 2798-- size 12 D cup adjustment (which comes as a separate pattern piece, as well as instructions as what defines their version of a B, C, or D cup. Wonderful).  I have nothing but good things to say about this dress.  The reason why it fits us chestal types, is that it abandons front darts altogether and is designed with a princess bodice (seams that contour). The reason that this is good?  Those seams are a lot more forgiving than darts,which can land in the wrong place, end up uneven, or (worse) pointy. 

Pockets!!  Fantastic.

 

I made two modifications which were totally unnecessary, but have made me happy all the same.  I added a back placket to match the one in front (sorry about the errant thread).  I used the facing pattern piece supplied, and "faced it" on both the outside and the inside.  Does that make sense?  If you have the pattern and want to do the same thing but are confused, email me and I can explain it better.  Finally, I do what I always do and sewed up the back all the way to see if I needed to put in a zipper.  If it weren't for my big head, I would have been fine.  I left out the zipper and replaced it with a little hand sewing and a hook and eye, giving my noggin the right amount of room for getting it on and off.  

The fabric was a whopping 2.50/yard at the Depot's Outdoor Sale.  It's a good one, people.  I had to slow myself down and just go with what I knew I would use right away.  It's a lightweight cotton-- almost a lawn-- that would probably be better lined (I'm wearing a slip.  I'm no hussy).  I ended up matching the plaids on one side but sort of lost it on the other.  It's cool. 

Three things that REALLY help me to remember when I'm sewing something like this up:

Be faithful to the seam allowances.  5/8" is a standard but MASSIVE seam allowance.  I used to regularly ignore the instructions in this area.  The problem is, the pattern and its finished measurements are based on the seam allowances given.  All those dots and notches you marked?  They'll only come together if you're following the rules.  I often go back and let things out, or sew things up tighter, but I'm a lot less cranky about how things fit when I know that I'm doing that initial 5/8" (or whatever they're telling me to do). 

Speaking of those Dots and Notches-- Mark 'Em.  My least favourite part of garment construction is cutting the stupid thing out.  I don't have a good space to do it, August always finds me and plops his bottom right on top of what I'm trying to cut, and it takes TIME.  The last thing I want to do is to take more of that time and transfer all the pattern marking.  But I'm learning to do it, and do it well, because it makes things so much easier and faster when you're putting it all together. 

Interfacing is Optional.  This is a bit controversial, but at least for the clothes I sew, I always leave out the interfacing.  I don't like the way it washes.  I don't like the way it feels.  It makes me nervous.  I was not always this way, but since I've started leaving it out I feel like I'm a lot happier with my clothes.  But that's just me.  I just thought you'd want to know. 

I leave you with the Awkward Hello to Passing Neighbor picture that was absolutely not staged and a lovely reminder that our whole neighborhood sees what giant dorks we are every day.  You are welcome. 

I'm pretty sure it doesn't get much better AND a Carseat Cover.

Summer Paul is HERE.  He eats cake for breakfast, listens to hip hop non-stop and has become extraordinarily handy all of a sudden.  Seriously-- fixing things in a neat and timely fashion.  I have a big old crush on Summer Paul. 

Martha came to visit (she came bearing gifts, which will be documented at length soon).  So did Blair.  There was a wonderful dinner with women I am lucky to know and have close by.  I would get mushy, but everyone already knows how I feel about these sorts of things. 

Sunday Parkways was great.  If you're going to be around town for the next two (NE and SE), I highly recommend getting out there.  The route runs close to the house and Sam was in and out all day, riding his bike and jacking himself up on free Clif Bars.  The Barnes family stopped in.  I am a huge fan of the *in town stop ins* (dirty house be damned).   I still love my bike. 

I updated the shirt/picking a pattern post with a picture of how I drew in the new stitching line on the back seam.  It's not the easiest thing to show, but you get the idea.  I also updated the last post with the strawberry compote recipe that will change your life (and my rather dim view of cooked strawberries).  Finally, I crossed "Cover up your Barker Lounger of a Carseat for the Bak" off the list.  Hooray. 

I had been procrastinating tracing out the panel sections of the original cover.  I realized that if I used a knit fabric, I could probably just get away with tracing the overall shape.  Here's what worked in case you have a carseat that makes you queazy to look at:

• The knit is actually a heavy, 100% cotton rib knit that I purchased at Rose City Textiles some time ago.  It's super stretchy, but heavy enough so that it was very easy to sew.  I traced the general outline of the original cover.  To do this, flatten it out as best you can and measure top to bottom and side to side.  Sketch in the curves-- it ends up looking like a squat hour glass. 
• Next, Cut Long stripes across the grain or rib about 4 1/2" wide.  Sew them together to make one long strip that will fit around your hourglass. 
• Turn over one edge of the strip 1/2" and stitch it down to make a long channel. 
• Starting at the bottom of your hourglass and with right sides together, stitch the raw edge of your long strip piece right all the way around until you get back to where you started.  
• Use a bodkin or safety pin and run some skinny elastic all the way through your channel.  Try it on the carseat and cinch up the elastic to where it fits, knotting it at the end. 
• I cut out holes for the strap once I got it on.  You can cut the holes and then use a zigzag stitch to bind the edges-- like a giant button holes.  

To be fair-- this carseat was a hand-me-down for Sam and we have loved it, cover and all.  It was just time for change.  And I am happy.  We've also rigged up a shade cover for the seat for sunny days-- in fact, Summer Paul has been hell bent on all sorts of Bakfiets improvements, so I'll keep you posted. 

NEXT UP!  I found it-- the dress/tunic pattern for the rest of us. As well as a Part II on the pattern picking and sewing tips. 

We are attacking summer

There has been none of this "easing into it" business-- we ran top speed into it.  Hannah arrived within minutes of school letting out and it turns out having her here is my new favourite way to kick off a major stretch of holiday. 

I expect Summer Paul to arrive Tuesday or Wednesday.  I hear it takes a few days.  And because I've never met Mr. Teacher Off for the Summer, I'm not sure what to expect.  But I'm stoked.  We had a party to kick things off.  Let's talk about this dessert:

It's the Lemon Rhubarb Bundt Cake from Rustic Fruit Desserts.  Amy gave me a copy after I got drool all over hers.  If you have any warm feelings about fruit desserts, you probably need to go ahead and pick this book up.  I served it up with a strawberry sauce that involved triple sec and BUTTER.  I'll try to get permission to post the recipe for that because it. is. good. 

Okay!  Here's the recipe:

Strawberry Compote from Emily Luchetti's Classic Star Desserts

5 tbsp sugar

2 tbsp lemon juice

5 tbsp grand marnier or Triple Sec (which is what I used.  Mariko thought orange juice concentrate would be great, too)

add 1 Q cleaned strawberries with 4 tbsp butter (half a stick) and stir gently for about 2 minutes, just until the butter is melted.

 serve over ice cream

Other good things-- friends... new ones and old ones.  I am so grateful for them-- especially at this point in my life when they are sometimes harder to find and even harder to keep.  We are trying to do our best at both of those things. 

Simplicity 2599 and Truthtelling. OR, Picking a Pattern.

I have been recieving a lot of inquiries about the pattern numbers I reference when I post about finished garments.  The pictures I take don't look the same as the garment pictured on the envelope.  I know.  There is something really, really important to consider when picking a tissue pattern-- the pictures that many of the major pattern companies use for their patterns LIE.  And worse than the photographs, are those colourful illustrations used to back up the untruths.  So what do you do?  How in the world do you decide what to sew?  How do you find those complicated pockets or hidden facings or the fact that there is absolutely no shaping, save for a rope belt?

Here's what I do. 

1.  Ignore the pictures and go straight to the technical drawings.  If you're shopping online or out of a catalogue, then you'll be able to look at the black and white, technical line drawings of all views of both the front and the back.  You can count darts, figure out drape, and search for hidden zippers, snaps and other bits that make life more interesting.  Plus, you won't be distracted by the awful/fancy/strange fabric or wierd embellishments that, taken away, make it the same pattern you already own.  If you're looking at the pattern envelope, you may only be able to see the back view in line form.  That's all right.  The rear view can give you a lot of information.

2. Once you've figured out how this pattern works, you're going to want to ask yourself if this is something you would try on in the store.  This little question has saved me from so much heartache.  For instance-- "cuuuute smock top!!!  Oh gosh.  Wait?  Where is the shaping?  There are no darts.  Uh, why are there gathers at the neck that flow straight down into the waist?  Oh.  Moving on".  Other things I avoid?  Full skirts that gather around the hips and waist.  High necks.  Wide open arm holes.  But that's all me-- your Beware List might include everything that I love. 

3.  Check finished garment measurements.  They are so important and are usually listed below the sizing numbers.  This will give you the ease (give) and tell you if you're going to have room to breath or if you need to invest in some shapewear. 
 

The way I look at patterns has changed so much in the last few years.  Most of what I've been learning has been through trial and error which is good-- but often frustrating and expensive.  I try to recycle my failures, but man alive, I would much rather have it come out right the first time.  So-- Simplicity 2599 is a perfect example.  The woman pictured is wearing a svelt tank made from rayon or something silky complete with cascading ruffles down the front.  PASS.  On closer inspection, the top is shaped with well placed darts and given a nice little calico (minus the ruffles), I have a shaped smock top that I can wear (and wash) every day.  It's got nice, tight armholes and it's a great length. 

I made one minor change-- there is a back seam that closes with a zipper.  In this case, I decided I didn't need one*, so I stitched up the seam and made the facing one piece instead of two.  The back seam had no shaping at all, so I drew in a long curve starting from the shoulder blades, through the small of my back, down to the hem.  I only took it in a 1/2" from the original, but it made a lot of difference. 

Edited with picture (click on picture to enlarge):

 

*(I always test out whether or not I need a closure by sewing up the seam and trying it on.  If I can't get it past my bust, I know that I best be finding a zipper.)

Matching Bikes

 
Lest you think we've abandoned the outdoors for the comfort of captain chairs and air-conditioning, I bring you proof otherwise.  We've been biking as much as possible since the weather turned, and thanking our good fortune to be able to cart all three children around with relative ease (the relative part has to do with sweat ratios).  My children are not featherweights. 

There is a new addition-- a Gary Fisher Simple City 3 speed that Paul purchased on sale at the Bike Gallery.  It's for me and it is so great.  It's so pretty looking that I feel a little self-conscious riding it.  My Nana's old, pink Huffy has finally bit the dust.  I will not miss trying to lift that thing up stairs-- it is also not a featherweight. 

I still need to get the basket off of the Huffy and I think we're going to put a bike seat on the back in case of a road rage emergency (hitting, biting, kicking in the bakfiets). This winter and spring have not been the easiest few months to get through and (besides coffee) getting on that bike and going has been the remedy.  Last night the house was a disaster, there was no dinner, and I just wanted to cry for all the laundry.  "Oh wait, let's go for a bike ride, and HEY!  Burritos!"  The pee smell was still here when I got back, but it was suddenly no big thing. 

I have three kids?  Some days I still get confused. 

I am going to sew up a new cover for that carseat this weekend... it's painful to look at.  We've got two more weeks of school, I have yet to eat a local strawberry (criminal), and Amy just lent me her copy of Rustic Fruit Desserts.   BRING IT. 

(*** Hey-- we're selling our Leggero Bike Trailer-- very similar to this one.  It fits two kids and their stuff and comes with a rain cover and an extra bike hookup so you can switch it between two bicycles easily.  If you're local and interested let me know and I can get you more info). 

Stitch Magazine and Going for Broke

Big doings over here in Crazy Town.

We went to look at a van out in the burgs this last weekend and we were able to buy it on the spot.  Hello, Air Conditioning!!  Sam was confused at first and said he missed being able to touch everybody but eventually came around when he felt the cool, cool breeze coming from his own personal vent.  Also, there was the matter of the cup holders.  

On the way home we bought a new stove.  It's been awhile... I made an inaugural rhubarb-raspberry crumble that was probably only mediocre, but really, the best thing I've tasted in a while.

If that wasn't enough excitement, copies of Stitch magazine arrived in the mail on Monday.  I have two projects in the Spring issue-- a summer hat featuring Liberty fabric, and a stenciled pillow.   Amy is in there too, and so is a great article written by Susan.  Stitch is such a quality publication and I feel very lucky to be in there. 

I've got a few things flung over my sewing machine chair waiting for me and this coming long weekend.  Thank you for all the thoughts about *finding the time*-- I hope you all know I didn't mean, "how do you do it all?", because good lord, I know that none of us really do (and if you do, then you win).  It's good to hear how you make time to do the things that matter to you.  I had a friend that put mopping the floor really high on that list because things were not right until she could get that done.  I can respect that.  I have a feeling that exercising should be bumped up a few places on my list.  I'm going to go sit in the new van with my rhubarb crumble and think on that a bit.

When I'm not sewing I think about sewing.

Mariko got back from Japan with the goods. She is my dealer.  For your viewing pleasure:

 

(ISBN 978-4-579-11234-0)

I know it looks like another version of the dresses I've been making but center front darts-- hello!-- the little things make all the difference. 

I don't think I need to explain why this coat is so great.  This is going to be trickier to sew (hell pockets) from the book/Japanese instructions, but I have a vintage pattern with similar pockets and if I can remember how I made them before, I'll be in business. 

How am I sewing these days?  I cannot give you a straight-forward answer.  I make it work.  I've stopped trying to get anything done while I'm home alone with the boys.  I used to be able to do things during naptime (and by "things" I mean working on things I like to do and not laundry/cleaning/feeding) but those days are gone for now.  I usually wait until dinner is done (we eat early, early, even if Paul's not home yet) and then I try to get an hour in while Wrestlemania is happening elsewhere.   We don't clean up until the crazies have gone to bed.  What kills me some days is that for every one thing I get done, I have five things I'm thinking/waititng/wishing I could try out.  All in good time. 

How do you do it? 

Search This and Nani 2995.

I added a search function to the side bar and finally added dozens of posts to the "sewing clothes" category from the more ambiguous "sewing projects" tag.  You can now scroll through cringe-worthy posts of my early blouse attempts or view some poor self-portraiture.  Lucky Duckies.

The self timer shots might not be any better now, but I still forge ahead.  This is the same dress pattern from the last post (Simplcity 2995)-- just shortened 2" and no extras like plackets of pockets.  When I tried it on I tied a coral/orange (persimmon?) sash around the waist and it looked great.  But then I tried to move around in it and said sash moved around to some very un-great places.  I think I need a legitimate belt, or maybe an attached sash in the front that ties in the back.  I hate ties. 

Anyway: 

I was apparently feeling pensive at that moment.  The fabric is Nani Iro double gauze from a few years ago.  I cut it across the grain instead of with, so the whole dress took less than two yards.  I did not iron it for these photos.  I was worried that the double gauze wouldn't have enough give or movement, but so far so good.  It is a teensy bit sheer, but nothing that a half-slip won't make less skanky. 

I was going to wear it out tonight but dangit, Portland is doing the crazy weather, rain 16 times inbetween sunbreaks, today.  And there is a little wind (a lot of wind).  We made it out briefly to register Sam for Kindergarten this morning-- Hooray!  I am so excited for him.  I think they'll be a lot fewer tears out of both of us this September as opposed to last. 

Several Queries and Simplicity 2995

 

How are we feeling about threaded comments these days?  And denim?  How are we feeling about that?  First off-- I know the pattern number I gave for that last dress (2591) does not look like the dress I made, but I assure you that it is, pockets and all.  I should not have said anything about leaving out the zipper, because I like putting them in and anyone who can sew two straight lines can put in a zipper with little trouble.  Do not fear them.  All new commercial patterns will have detailed instructions on how to put them in, and there are photo step-outs all over the intranet (search for zipper tutorial and you should come up with some good ones).  In fact, if you have a favourite zipper (any kind) tutorial-- would you link to it in the comments?  That would be rad. 

Threaded comments--  I'm pretty okay with them.  They feel a lot more like a conversation than words floating into the air. I often read through my emails holding a baby and it goes something like this:

Amy says: "Very cute! I definitely like the shoulder coverage. I hate when my bra straps are sticking out. And may I also say, I hate when things are so low-cut that you have to wear a cami. It seems like everything is so low-cut now. End rant. Anyway, good good dress."

Meanwhile, I'm saying (often out loud), "I know, right??  Camisoles make everything so tricky and they ride up and I don't have time to coordinate TWO things.  I'm tempted to say BRING BACK THE LEOTARD." 

But of course, that never makes it onto the screen and worse, I don't get back through my emails when I'm two-handed to answer questions and respond properly.  So, you know, if you know the answer to someone's query, go forth and answer them.  Me and my self-talk-one-handedness thank you. 

Okay, now denim... This is very lightweight, cotton denim I bought for 2 dollars/yard last summer.  I made Sam some pants out of it and I washed and dried them twice weekly for a year before they started to rip through in the knees.  This will get worn less frequently, and maybe I won't dry it very often.  It also fades/bleeds a little, so I chose some thrifted poly/cotton for the pocket and shoulder tabs.  The pattern is Simplicity 2995 and BY GOD, I think I've found my new uniform.  It qualifies for several reasons:  it has a whole list of variations but really only three pattern pieces for the basic dress.  You can't get much easier than three pattern pieces.  It's darted in the front and has a decent shape in the back (it looks particularly rockin' with a belt), and Paul said some very nice things about it and me when I tried it on.  I'm working on another version which I will report and model on shortly.  I has a completely different look.  In other news-- Simplicity has come out with several patterns that actually contain B, C, and D cup alterations right on the pattern.  HELLO.  This is one more great step forward in making garment sewing more accessible for the beginning homesewer.

This weekend is ending up all right but it has had it's sucky moments.   I'm going to try and put it all to bed this evening-- maybe pancakes?  And Bob Newhart on Hulu?  He's my new answer to MTM.  Plus, he lives in Chicago which is where I'd like to be today.  Natch.