leaving the house in something other than jeans.
Okay. I'm going to go into some detail about sewing these things up. I realize this is annoying to some of you. Sewing your own clothes is a little scary and it takes some work to get going and I want you to have a lot of information. It's power, dontcha know. And if I'm unclear (well, when I'm unclear) go ahead and comment or email. I do my best.
This is the shirt pattern straight out of the Sew U book. It's a size large, which in the book encompasses a 10-12 range and a 38 1/2 inch bust. Normal pattern sizing is built around a 'B' cup and wouldn't work for me without adjustment, but this shirt is cut generously. I'm going to give you the size chart for the book patterns because if you want to order it online, but are unsure if they patterns are going to fit, you need to know. Edited... Built by Wendy size chart and comparison here .
Bust goes from 31 1/2" to 38 1/2"
Waist goes from 24-31" (that's at the natural waist where it is the smallest at your body)
Hip is from 35"-42"
I sewed in the bust darts, but originally left out the front and back ones. When I realized it was going to be too big I went and put them back in. Simplicity offers a "fit guide" on their website that is worth looking into. If you've been reading here for awhile (and I realize most of you haven't) I've detailed my woes with commercially fit shirt patterns before. A few times. Becky also lent me this link to Debbie Cook's instructional on empire waist bust adjustments (which I'm going to look at when I go to remake the last shirt.)
I went short on the sleeves (the book tells you how to shorten/lengthen patterns) and straightened out the hem line just a little. The sleeves have a little pleat in them. I have made collars in the past, but for whatever reason this appears to be the easiest collar instruction I've ever dealt with.
I made two mistakes. One on the "stand" collar that I won't disclose because it looks fine and I didn't figure out the mistake until I was lying in bed obsessing over it and the shirt was already done. Not a pattern problem, just a me problem.
The second mistake I have made repeatedly and am such a total dummy (we'll blame it on a learning disorder) and that is making my buttonholes horizontal rather than vertical. Again, I realized that one when I was almost done.
Two notes about this book/pattern: I could not find where it listed the "ease" measurement. This is important for people who are nuts about sizing. It describes how loose or tight the finished garment will be by stating the difference between the finished measurements and the sizing chart. This can take a lot of the wondering out of how a piece will fit.
If you're learning to sew garments I recommend this book, BUT I also recommend you buy few stand alone patterns by a major pattern company so that you can see how they compare. Sometimes the book covers so may different options for a particular garment, that it doesn't get as detailed as it might about specific sewing steps as the regular pattern might. And of course, there's the fit discrepancies. I'm still trying to figure out that one. And it's worth the getting, even if all the patterns don't fit your body. Her single patterns can be ordered up to a size 20 and the basic ones are comparable in style. (But this is just my opinion Folks, so don't be afraid to disagree with any of this.)
Of course, when this book comes out, we will be left with no excuses when it comes to sewing good stuff.
The fabric? Thrifted blue cotton with itty-bitty cherries on it. Early 70s print I think. The buttons are old too, and maybe a little big for the shirt. I should get some little red ones and switch them out.
The skirt is also Sew U. It's 21 wale green corduroy I bought thrifting (there is nearly nothing better than good quality thrifted corduroy). I normally go it alone with skirt patterns, but if you're not so inclined, this is a very good pattern to start with. And the best thing about these patterns? They include all the pattern pieces for crazy pockets and embellishments. And don't we all need more pockets and embellishments? I do.
