all buttoned up.

A Sunny Spot (Japanese Sewing Books, My Old Friends)

Shortly after the Baby Girl Announcement, Erin sent me a stack of Japanese girl/kid sewing books her girls had outrgrown. She is an excellent gifter. One of my favourites in the stack is A Sunny Spot (ISBN978-4-529-04894-1). The clothes are femine and unfussy. They are also pretty easy to sew but look otherwise, which is really the best. Sometimes clothes with clean lines are illogically complicated to sew.

I made "Camisole With Wide Strap" for my leggy 4 1/2 year old niece (pattern pictured directly above). She was not in the mood to be photographed. It is more of a dress than a tunic on her, but that will change pretty quickly. I love the pockets. I added a fabric tag in the back so she could easily figure out front from back, and then did a quick Anna Joyce style applique on the front (again, she was NOT IN THE MOOD). From tracing to finishing it was only a couple of hours of work. The lightweight cotton (ticking stripe) came from Bolt originally, but I've had it on my shelves for a while. It is the sort of fabric I'd like a room full of. 

And speaking of shelves-- they are overflowing with scraps. Is anyone into scrap bags/envelopes? I was thinking of listing a bunch on Big Cartel, along with some yardage of things that I don't think I'll use. I am horrible at parting with things like this, but something needs to be done. I may have to enlist reinforcements to talk me through it.

Three Small Things

I have managed to sew three small things for Truly during the last week. If everything goes all right and the house is not too much of a disaster, Manny and I will sneak into the basement during T's morning nap and he will draw and glue and I will do something related to sewing or laundry (blech). We have been marginally successful. It helps that the seams are only ever as long as my arm. I traced patterns from a Japanese Craft Book (the NYC kids book everybody seems to have), Anna Maria's Quick Change Trousers, and Shelly's Ayashe blouse.

The little dress fits her now and I made it from a fine wale corduroy remnant and some beautiful cotton Sally let me pick out before she left (there's going to be a lot of clothes coming from Shim remnants). I thought it was the easiest thing I could think of to sew considering that I am quite out of practice. Of course, I picked something that involved some tricky inside-out turning and sewing, but it was fine. She's not much for wearing dresses. They get all twisted up when she's rolling around and refusing to sit or crawl. I don't know if it's because I've dressed three boys, but she wears far fewer traditionally pretty things than I thought she would. She looks right in soft, comfortable things... so what if they are mostly stripes?!

The trousers are too big, but won't be for much longer. The grey came from my Roobios dress and is the sort of fabric I could do with a bolt of. The gingham is from Sally and the reversible side is just an inverse of the two fabrics. I will be making more of these.

I love this blouse pattern and I'm planning several more in different sleeve lengths and sizes. And maybe lengthening it into a dress? That front yoke/neck opening and sleeve draping are exactly my thing in little girls clothes. In fact, when I'm browsing for small tunics or tops I always do a quick calculation in my head: is this more than a 1/2 yard of Liberty? Then I should make it. And also go buy some Liberty (see how that works?). This is double gauze that I've had for a long time-- maybe a remnant from Mariko? Actually-- I think she has a matching shirt? That would be fantastic. This is the 18 month size, which is too large to look right on her, but she wore it today anyway.

I bought some new fabric last month, but really, I should be able to sew for a good long time from my shelves. It's a shame that I'm so terribly wanty over several of the new prints from Liberty's new quilt weight line. That just means I should start cutting out quilts, yes? Manny doesn't have one yet, and Sam is in a new, bigger bed, which probably means a new, bigger quilt. See how easy it is to create unrealistic expectations for myself? DEAD EASY.

Another Reason to Get Busy

Shelly Figueroa just relaunched her pattern company, Figgy's. Holy Mother of Little People Sewing. The new patterns are pretty girl-centric, but as the mother of two awesome boys, I know she won't leave the boys out in the cold (not to mention, she co-wrote a whole darn book on sewing for boys). But that's beside the point-- do you see that dress?

I love these patterns. They are a little Ottobre meet Japanese Craft Book. They are sweet without being too sweet. They are simple but they don't skimp on the details. Shelly recently began working with Daniela and they are making magic together. I saw the samples at her house today and I'm getting my hands on all three patterns (there are 5 total garments and variations of each) of these as soon as possible. I have nieces. They need leggings and easy-over-your-head blouses. They need that freaking dress.

Figgy's is running a pre-order free shipping promo at the moment (until the 24th). They are printing up next week and will ship the first week of December, so you can eek out some pre-holiday sewing if that's your game. See here for close-ups and variations and more patterns from previous seasons.

This is most definitely my game, folks.

Sewing For Boys (Hallelujah)

Do you want this book?

You want this book.

Let me tell you why:

1. Sewing For Boys: 24 Projects to Create a Handmade Wardrobe by Shelly Figueroa and Karen LePage is one of the few options for folks who would like to sew for boys (or girls that don't want to wear dresses or skirts all the time). They could have played it safe then, opting for a couple of shirts, pants and gifties. Thankfully, they didn't, and instead created projects that included the basics (t-shirts, play pants, and pullovers) and the really-very-special (beautiful coats, a suit coat and pants, and gifts that you're going to want to give).

2. The details! Shelly and Karen are sticklers for the details, friends. But they have not wasted our time on finicky, useless details! Nope. This is the kind of sewing that is built to last. I like how Anna Maria put it: "The patterns are so straight forward, doting just enough on the details that make it worth home sewing to begin with". Yes and yes. These clothes are interesting without being overwhelming. The patterns are sized up to 6/7. (For those of you looking for bigger sizes check out Figgy's individual patterns, some of them are sized up to 14.)

3. You get to sew with knits even if you've never sewn with knits or don't own a serger. My boys live in knits. I will be making this romper. EVEN IF I HAVE TO MAKE IT IN PINK.

4. The book itself. Wiley is beginning to put out books that are pretty to look at and lovely to hold. Specifically? All the projects are pictured in photos right at the beginning of the book in full colour spreads, with referenced page numbers. They have duplicated the one thing that I consistently love about Japanese Craft books and the way they are formatted.

So. I'm cutting into some cotton double knit that Mariko brought back from me for the Pauly pullover or the raglan T. Sam should fit the largest size comfortably. I was saving it for myself, but who am I kidding? These days I'm going to need a lot more than a yard to swaddle my girth. I had wanted a finished project to show you today, but the fading tomatoes on the counter stood in the way. I am assuaging my guilt with the knowledge that I'll be sewing quite a few things from this book-- like robes for Christmas in lieu of pajamas this year. They LOVE to be cozy and if I can find a good slipper pattern for August he is going to lose his mind with happiness (the child often wears a hoodie to bed, he's always so cold).

To win a copy, leave a comment (US addresses only) and we'll pull a name next week. Do you want to increase your chances and see more beautiful pictures and projects? Visit the other stops on the blog tour.

Do you have boys to sew for? Do you get stuck wondering if all their rough and tumble playing makes sewing their clothes worthwhile? Honestly, I get stuck there sometimes. This book is going to help you get unstuck.

The Violet Again, and Quilt Market!!

I made good on a promise (to myself) to try this one again making some of the changes we talked about in the last post. It's not navy, though. This is some lawn that I got last summer at the Depot for pennies. It is pretty loud. I can back that assertion up because Eggplant got the same stuff and she does not do tame.

So! Size 8, with modifications on the collar and the sleeve length. This is not a fitted blouse as there's a lot of fullness in the back. So if you're looking for figure hugging, this is not the pattern for you. You're going to want something with darts in the back and coming up from the waist in the front. I am not a figure hugging type, but I think I may take out some of that back fullness next time.

Anyway-- it is going in my suitcase along with a cardigan for next weekends Quilt Market in Salt Lake City! Gina asked if I would tag along and I'm pretty excited. I'll also be doing some recon for Kim at True Up. If you see me, be kind. I will be the one wearing the loud shirt (possibly) and dorking out from being around so many great textiles (most probably). 

The Violet Trial

(left side is the original and the right side has been pinned up at the sleeve and collar)

I hear from lots of people who like to sew clothes-- or WOULD like to sew clothes-- that they don't want to waste time on muslins or test runs or whatever you want to call them. I get it. But I will tell you that cutting into that good fabric with a pattern you haven't tested is risky behavior for even seasoned sewists. I have owned piles of unworn handmade clothes that I made this way, but didn't love because they didn't fit me the way I wanted them to. Muslins are not a waste of time. I have learned my lesson.

But there are compromises. Keeping tabs on what Melissa is making and then seeing her wear the clothes she sews, has been very helpful. I keep several yards of super cheap, lightweight/apparel, type fabric around that I like but don't love. I usually pick it up at the Fabric Depot outdoor sale for 2-3 dollars a yard. Old sheets work great, too. I trace out the pattern onto pattern paper and sew up a trial version. For dresses, it's usually just the bodice with one sleeve. If that's going to be too time consuming/difficult, I pin the tissue paper pieces together and sort of wiggle them on to test it. For blouses (depending on the difficulty) I sometimes just make the whole thing.

For the Violet blouse from Colette I just made the whole thing. I knew there would be a few issues from the get-go. The cut of the main blouse pieces are going to be flattering on all kinds of shapes and sizes, but the collar and the sleeves were wild cards on a body type like mine. If you are rolling with a little more on top, there's a fine line between looking good and looking like Gerta the Milk Maid heading out to wrangle her livestock (I love the name Gerta, by the way). This is a FANTASTIC pattern for beginners. I'm not lying. If you are careful, cut things out properly, and follow the instructions, you will happily graduate from a-line skirts and pillows to becoming a full on blouse maker. This is my fourth pattern from Colette, and they have all been stellar.

So, first off, it's too big. That's going to be easy enough to fix. I'll keep the dart at the same place/size, but bring in the sides near my natural waist while making a size down. I made a size 10 which was already a size down from my measurements. Other changes:

• The sleeve cap is great but the sleeve length is problematic. I'm redrawing the hem line on the sleeve by shaving at least two inches off the center and curving them down to shave an inch off at the arm pit. Take a sleeve you love and trace hem line and length onto the Violet pattern piece.
• The collar! I'm cutting the collar down considerably and backing it off the center at least a 1/2 inch. As long as you keep the neck curve the same, this is easy as pie. 
• I made the underside of the collar a different fabric (black) and will likely do the same for the collar and the facings in the next blouse. It's cute! And you can get away with less of the main fabric. 

The nice thing about functional muslins, is that you can always gift them to someone that they might fit! Or you can re-purpose the fabric into quilts or small clothes. My next version is probably going to be navy pin dot. I refuse to admit that I have enough navy in my life.

Little Things I've Sewn

I'm sewing girl things again, which is cool because I don't have any and as much as I like to pretend otherwise, it is kind of fun to girlie sew. Anyway. I have a copy of Oliver+S Little Things to Sew by Liesl Gibson and even though there are boy things in there, I asked Gina if I could make a Red Riding Hood cape for Bolt using Anna Maria's velveteen. This is the sort of pattern that this fabric was made for. There are more details on the Bolt blog, including pictures of it on an actual mannequin. This project would be no problem to modify for an adult-type person. Plus it has a little Alice-Queen-of-Hearts thing happening.

There are a couple of stand-out projects that I am putting on my to-do list (rather than my "oh, cute, but not for me" list, which is a nice guilt alleviating list to have on hand):

Hats. My little boys love themselves some hats.

Bento Luch Box for summer eating outside.

Messenger Bag. For me.

***

I sewed up an Oliver+S outfit (details here) for my niece on my night away in Astoria. I used the Sailboat Top, Skirt and Pants pattern in size 5. Generally, these patterns have you mind the details, which can be daunting for some sewers but the results are worth the extra effort. I would like that top in my size. Maybe this one? I'm a little skeptical that I could get the same results, but I'll use any excuse to use up some french terry. And even though my fabric choice was kind of girlie, August is going to get a pair of those pants and shirt in canvas and stripes. Sewing for boys is pretty great, too.

A Shell of a Shirt and the Proper Attire Skirt

Sewing simple clothes that don't look crap-tastic on me is really tricky. I have a lot of Japanese craft/sewing books and even though I've had great luck with a couple of them, I usually use them for inspiration/objects of my longing.

Melissa made this shirt for herself and it ended up being so. cute. While I was skeptical it could work for me, I borrowed the book from Mariko anyway. I made some minor adjustments: I lowered the darts quite a bit as their apexes were at a place where mine are not (or ever have been). I made the seam allowances a bit bigger and lengthened it an extra two inches. The fabric is Moda's Regent Street Lawn (from Bolt) and while not quite as soft as Liberty Tana Lawn, sewed up nearly as well and for much less money.

It sewed up in an hour and a half and it might have taken less time if I hadn't been jabbering my head off. I made a muslin and kept it loose around the hips. I love the sleeves. I still hardily endorse this pattern as my go-to basic, but now I have two. Two are better than one-- unless it is something nasty.

I think it will go nicely with this skirt. I wrote a pretty detailed review of it here (it's living at the store at the moment, if'n you want to inspect it further). Of course, it's still cardigans, wool socks and corduroys around here. At least for the moment.

Velveteen and a List for the Week

I had no idea I was going to be so into velveteen this year-- but it is incredibly soft and lovely to sew with.  If you like it online you will LOVE it in person.  Much like the voile, I really hope that this substrate lives beyond the current line.  I made a pair of slippers which I've written about here, and I justified the rest of the yardage for another new pillow cover.  The pillow form is partially feathers, so the overall smooshiness of the cushion has made it the new favourite. 

*The quilting on THE QUILT is done and I'm getting down to work on the binding.  I almost got a little teary over it today... I am so happy with the way Grammie and Tillie finished it up.

*Posting at the Bolt Neighborhood is getting hot and heavy this month with lots of gifts to make and project inspiration.  We've gotten things going in the last couple of weeks, so if you're looking for ideas, keep an eye out (you may want to try the "Gift Giving" and "Weekend Project" categories on the side bar). 

There are two great events on Friday-- one on each coast:

• Modern Domestic is hosting my friend (and maybe yours?) Alicia Paulson this Friday from 5-6:30 in honor of her second book, Embroidery Companion.  Both Bolt and MD have gorgeous samples from the book up on display this week. 
• One day I'm going to meet Jennifer Judd-Mcgee and I'm going to get to tell her in person how much I love her and her work.  For now, I hope you can go visit her show, rally, at Nahcotta in Portsmouth, NH for her opening on Friday night.  

Our tree is up and the boys really outdid themselves picking it out this year.  It is BIG, which makes the ornaments that they have not broken in the last 24 hours seem even fewer than usual.  Looks like it's time to get out the glitter!  It's about to get very sparkly up in here. 

And When I Said... (But Really, The Hooded Scarf)

..."November, please be kind", I meant, "please try not to suck".  But it appears that it's too late for a clarification, as evidenced by the piles of sheets and blankets (affectionately known as vomit laundry) waiting their turn for a wash.  Sewing?  Yes, please.  Then I'll get back to scrubbing down the house.

One of the projects that has completely won me over this autumn is The Hooded Scarf pattern from Jamie Christina.  I've made four so far, all out of baby wale corduroy and all lined with Liberty Tana Lawn (with the above exception being Alexander Henry Lawn).  I've interlined two of the hoods with flannel, for extra winter warmth, and the next one I make is going to be the drawstring version for a friend that does a lot of biking.  They make smashing gifts.  There is one small error in the pattern as it doesn't explain that you need to sew the outer and liner two scarf pieces together, to make the entire length of the scarf (if you buy it, you'll see exactly what I mean and you may not even notice.  I didn't.).  I wrote a little more about them, along with more links and pictures, last month on the Bolt blog.

This is my girl Claire, in very low light... but you get the idea. 

Tonight! 

*Let the holiday craft fair/trunk shows/handmade bazaars commence!  The Little Winter Market Meet and Greet is tonight at West Elm.  The sale happens on Saturday and Sunday.  Susan, I am coming for you. 

*The Handmade Holiday Open House at Modern Domestic is tonight, as well.  There will be food, prizes, previews of classes and discounts on both classes and sewing passes.  Plus, there are a ton of cute kits and soft toys from Kata Golda to buy.