all buttoned up.

Another Reason to Get Busy

Shelly Figueroa just relaunched her pattern company, Figgy's. Holy Mother of Little People Sewing. The new patterns are pretty girl-centric, but as the mother of two awesome boys, I know she won't leave the boys out in the cold (not to mention, she co-wrote a whole darn book on sewing for boys). But that's beside the point-- do you see that dress?

I love these patterns. They are a little Ottobre meet Japanese Craft Book. They are sweet without being too sweet. They are simple but they don't skimp on the details. Shelly recently began working with Daniela and they are making magic together. I saw the samples at her house today and I'm getting my hands on all three patterns (there are 5 total garments and variations of each) of these as soon as possible. I have nieces. They need leggings and easy-over-your-head blouses. They need that freaking dress.

Figgy's is running a pre-order free shipping promo at the moment (until the 24th). They are printing up next week and will ship the first week of December, so you can eek out some pre-holiday sewing if that's your game. See here for close-ups and variations and more patterns from previous seasons.

This is most definitely my game, folks.

Sewing For Boys (Hallelujah)

Do you want this book?

You want this book.

Let me tell you why:

1. Sewing For Boys: 24 Projects to Create a Handmade Wardrobe by Shelly Figueroa and Karen LePage is one of the few options for folks who would like to sew for boys (or girls that don't want to wear dresses or skirts all the time). They could have played it safe then, opting for a couple of shirts, pants and gifties. Thankfully, they didn't, and instead created projects that included the basics (t-shirts, play pants, and pullovers) and the really-very-special (beautiful coats, a suit coat and pants, and gifts that you're going to want to give).

2. The details! Shelly and Karen are sticklers for the details, friends. But they have not wasted our time on finicky, useless details! Nope. This is the kind of sewing that is built to last. I like how Anna Maria put it: "The patterns are so straight forward, doting just enough on the details that make it worth home sewing to begin with". Yes and yes. These clothes are interesting without being overwhelming. The patterns are sized up to 6/7. (For those of you looking for bigger sizes check out Figgy's individual patterns, some of them are sized up to 14.)

3. You get to sew with knits even if you've never sewn with knits or don't own a serger. My boys live in knits. I will be making this romper. EVEN IF I HAVE TO MAKE IT IN PINK.

4. The book itself. Wiley is beginning to put out books that are pretty to look at and lovely to hold. Specifically? All the projects are pictured in photos right at the beginning of the book in full colour spreads, with referenced page numbers. They have duplicated the one thing that I consistently love about Japanese Craft books and the way they are formatted.

So. I'm cutting into some cotton double knit that Mariko brought back from me for the Pauly pullover or the raglan T. Sam should fit the largest size comfortably. I was saving it for myself, but who am I kidding? These days I'm going to need a lot more than a yard to swaddle my girth. I had wanted a finished project to show you today, but the fading tomatoes on the counter stood in the way. I am assuaging my guilt with the knowledge that I'll be sewing quite a few things from this book-- like robes for Christmas in lieu of pajamas this year. They LOVE to be cozy and if I can find a good slipper pattern for August he is going to lose his mind with happiness (the child often wears a hoodie to bed, he's always so cold).

To win a copy, leave a comment (US addresses only) and we'll pull a name next week. Do you want to increase your chances and see more beautiful pictures and projects? Visit the other stops on the blog tour.

Do you have boys to sew for? Do you get stuck wondering if all their rough and tumble playing makes sewing their clothes worthwhile? Honestly, I get stuck there sometimes. This book is going to help you get unstuck.

The Violet Again, and Quilt Market!!

I made good on a promise (to myself) to try this one again making some of the changes we talked about in the last post. It's not navy, though. This is some lawn that I got last summer at the Depot for pennies. It is pretty loud. I can back that assertion up because Eggplant got the same stuff and she does not do tame.

So! Size 8, with modifications on the collar and the sleeve length. This is not a fitted blouse as there's a lot of fullness in the back. So if you're looking for figure hugging, this is not the pattern for you. You're going to want something with darts in the back and coming up from the waist in the front. I am not a figure hugging type, but I think I may take out some of that back fullness next time.

Anyway-- it is going in my suitcase along with a cardigan for next weekends Quilt Market in Salt Lake City! Gina asked if I would tag along and I'm pretty excited. I'll also be doing some recon for Kim at True Up. If you see me, be kind. I will be the one wearing the loud shirt (possibly) and dorking out from being around so many great textiles (most probably). 

The Violet Trial

(left side is the original and the right side has been pinned up at the sleeve and collar)

I hear from lots of people who like to sew clothes-- or WOULD like to sew clothes-- that they don't want to waste time on muslins or test runs or whatever you want to call them. I get it. But I will tell you that cutting into that good fabric with a pattern you haven't tested is risky behavior for even seasoned sewists. I have owned piles of unworn handmade clothes that I made this way, but didn't love because they didn't fit me the way I wanted them to. Muslins are not a waste of time. I have learned my lesson.

But there are compromises. Keeping tabs on what Melissa is making and then seeing her wear the clothes she sews, has been very helpful. I keep several yards of super cheap, lightweight/apparel, type fabric around that I like but don't love. I usually pick it up at the Fabric Depot outdoor sale for 2-3 dollars a yard. Old sheets work great, too. I trace out the pattern onto pattern paper and sew up a trial version. For dresses, it's usually just the bodice with one sleeve. If that's going to be too time consuming/difficult, I pin the tissue paper pieces together and sort of wiggle them on to test it. For blouses (depending on the difficulty) I sometimes just make the whole thing.

For the Violet blouse from Colette I just made the whole thing. I knew there would be a few issues from the get-go. The cut of the main blouse pieces are going to be flattering on all kinds of shapes and sizes, but the collar and the sleeves were wild cards on a body type like mine. If you are rolling with a little more on top, there's a fine line between looking good and looking like Gerta the Milk Maid heading out to wrangle her livestock (I love the name Gerta, by the way). This is a FANTASTIC pattern for beginners. I'm not lying. If you are careful, cut things out properly, and follow the instructions, you will happily graduate from a-line skirts and pillows to becoming a full on blouse maker. This is my fourth pattern from Colette, and they have all been stellar.

So, first off, it's too big. That's going to be easy enough to fix. I'll keep the dart at the same place/size, but bring in the sides near my natural waist while making a size down. I made a size 10 which was already a size down from my measurements. Other changes:

• The sleeve cap is great but the sleeve length is problematic. I'm redrawing the hem line on the sleeve by shaving at least two inches off the center and curving them down to shave an inch off at the arm pit. Take a sleeve you love and trace hem line and length onto the Violet pattern piece.
• The collar! I'm cutting the collar down considerably and backing it off the center at least a 1/2 inch. As long as you keep the neck curve the same, this is easy as pie. 
• I made the underside of the collar a different fabric (black) and will likely do the same for the collar and the facings in the next blouse. It's cute! And you can get away with less of the main fabric. 

The nice thing about functional muslins, is that you can always gift them to someone that they might fit! Or you can re-purpose the fabric into quilts or small clothes. My next version is probably going to be navy pin dot. I refuse to admit that I have enough navy in my life.

Little Things I've Sewn

I'm sewing girl things again, which is cool because I don't have any and as much as I like to pretend otherwise, it is kind of fun to girlie sew. Anyway. I have a copy of Oliver+S Little Things to Sew by Liesl Gibson and even though there are boy things in there, I asked Gina if I could make a Red Riding Hood cape for Bolt using Anna Maria's velveteen. This is the sort of pattern that this fabric was made for. There are more details on the Bolt blog, including pictures of it on an actual mannequin. This project would be no problem to modify for an adult-type person. Plus it has a little Alice-Queen-of-Hearts thing happening.

There are a couple of stand-out projects that I am putting on my to-do list (rather than my "oh, cute, but not for me" list, which is a nice guilt alleviating list to have on hand):

Hats. My little boys love themselves some hats.

Bento Luch Box for summer eating outside.

Messenger Bag. For me.

***

I sewed up an Oliver+S outfit (details here) for my niece on my night away in Astoria. I used the Sailboat Top, Skirt and Pants pattern in size 5. Generally, these patterns have you mind the details, which can be daunting for some sewers but the results are worth the extra effort. I would like that top in my size. Maybe this one? I'm a little skeptical that I could get the same results, but I'll use any excuse to use up some french terry. And even though my fabric choice was kind of girlie, August is going to get a pair of those pants and shirt in canvas and stripes. Sewing for boys is pretty great, too.

A Shell of a Shirt and the Proper Attire Skirt

Sewing simple clothes that don't look crap-tastic on me is really tricky. I have a lot of Japanese craft/sewing books and even though I've had great luck with a couple of them, I usually use them for inspiration/objects of my longing.

Melissa made this shirt for herself and it ended up being so. cute. While I was skeptical it could work for me, I borrowed the book from Mariko anyway. I made some minor adjustments: I lowered the darts quite a bit as their apexes were at a place where mine are not (or ever have been). I made the seam allowances a bit bigger and lengthened it an extra two inches. The fabric is Moda's Regent Street Lawn (from Bolt) and while not quite as soft as Liberty Tana Lawn, sewed up nearly as well and for much less money.

It sewed up in an hour and a half and it might have taken less time if I hadn't been jabbering my head off. I made a muslin and kept it loose around the hips. I love the sleeves. I still hardily endorse this pattern as my go-to basic, but now I have two. Two are better than one-- unless it is something nasty.

I think it will go nicely with this skirt. I wrote a pretty detailed review of it here (it's living at the store at the moment, if'n you want to inspect it further). Of course, it's still cardigans, wool socks and corduroys around here. At least for the moment.

Velveteen and a List for the Week

I had no idea I was going to be so into velveteen this year-- but it is incredibly soft and lovely to sew with.  If you like it online you will LOVE it in person.  Much like the voile, I really hope that this substrate lives beyond the current line.  I made a pair of slippers which I've written about here, and I justified the rest of the yardage for another new pillow cover.  The pillow form is partially feathers, so the overall smooshiness of the cushion has made it the new favourite. 

*The quilting on THE QUILT is done and I'm getting down to work on the binding.  I almost got a little teary over it today... I am so happy with the way Grammie and Tillie finished it up.

*Posting at the Bolt Neighborhood is getting hot and heavy this month with lots of gifts to make and project inspiration.  We've gotten things going in the last couple of weeks, so if you're looking for ideas, keep an eye out (you may want to try the "Gift Giving" and "Weekend Project" categories on the side bar). 

There are two great events on Friday-- one on each coast:

• Modern Domestic is hosting my friend (and maybe yours?) Alicia Paulson this Friday from 5-6:30 in honor of her second book, Embroidery Companion.  Both Bolt and MD have gorgeous samples from the book up on display this week. 
• One day I'm going to meet Jennifer Judd-Mcgee and I'm going to get to tell her in person how much I love her and her work.  For now, I hope you can go visit her show, rally, at Nahcotta in Portsmouth, NH for her opening on Friday night.  

Our tree is up and the boys really outdid themselves picking it out this year.  It is BIG, which makes the ornaments that they have not broken in the last 24 hours seem even fewer than usual.  Looks like it's time to get out the glitter!  It's about to get very sparkly up in here. 

And When I Said... (But Really, The Hooded Scarf)

..."November, please be kind", I meant, "please try not to suck".  But it appears that it's too late for a clarification, as evidenced by the piles of sheets and blankets (affectionately known as vomit laundry) waiting their turn for a wash.  Sewing?  Yes, please.  Then I'll get back to scrubbing down the house.

One of the projects that has completely won me over this autumn is The Hooded Scarf pattern from Jamie Christina.  I've made four so far, all out of baby wale corduroy and all lined with Liberty Tana Lawn (with the above exception being Alexander Henry Lawn).  I've interlined two of the hoods with flannel, for extra winter warmth, and the next one I make is going to be the drawstring version for a friend that does a lot of biking.  They make smashing gifts.  There is one small error in the pattern as it doesn't explain that you need to sew the outer and liner two scarf pieces together, to make the entire length of the scarf (if you buy it, you'll see exactly what I mean and you may not even notice.  I didn't.).  I wrote a little more about them, along with more links and pictures, last month on the Bolt blog.

This is my girl Claire, in very low light... but you get the idea. 

Tonight! 

*Let the holiday craft fair/trunk shows/handmade bazaars commence!  The Little Winter Market Meet and Greet is tonight at West Elm.  The sale happens on Saturday and Sunday.  Susan, I am coming for you. 

*The Handmade Holiday Open House at Modern Domestic is tonight, as well.  There will be food, prizes, previews of classes and discounts on both classes and sewing passes.  Plus, there are a ton of cute kits and soft toys from Kata Golda to buy. 

Finding my Sloper (you can do it, too) and a Current Affairs Briefing

I made this top as an experiment or muslin, using Simplicity 2599 and some cheap, navy lawn I had on my shelves.  You need to pay attention to this pattern (I've written about it before) if you have trouble drafting your own bust adjustments.  The B, C and D adjustments come on their own pattern pieces!  This is a really good lesson in not paying attention to the photos on the pattern cover.

My goal is to find the right sized fitted shell, from which all future fitted shells, blouses, and the like, could be drafted from.  I'm getting there.  Let's pick this one apart!  I sewed a size 12 with a D adjustment, adding a piped collar to the front.  I drafted the collar freehand and added piping, which was sort of a crap shoot considering I'm not sure I can pull off this kind of thing.  I faced the neckline with the piping, which in hindsight I probably won't do again-- piping out of the package is like bias tape, so it stretches a lot and if you're not careful, it won't lie flat.  I would probably lose the piping around the arms, too.  I cut off about 3" in length and used a rolled hem on the bottom edge.

What else?  Possibly lose an inch or so on the straps?  Back darts?  Probably.  I didn't use a back closure, because I knew I could get it on and off over my head.

Other news:

• I'm sewing doll clothes.  I may or may not have lost my mind, but OH LORD, they're fun to make.  Plus, Hillary's book is on its way to me and I want to get in the mood.
• August has had some successful days in the bathroom.  We found the only kind of encouragement that works is that he gets to call someone he loves every time he goes where he's supposed to.  Don't be surprised if your phone rings.  I hope to be calling a lot of people.
• It is National Ice Cream Sandwich Day and we're heading over to the new Ruby Jewel outpost for 1$ minis this afternoon.  Do you know where your local ice cream sandwich store is?
• We have had an uptick in inquiries by passerbys on the origin of our sons.  The conversations are getting increasingly awkward.  I usually turn to the good people at Love Isn't Enough for help in ways to protect my children (even from myself) and, among other things, to better understand the language of bias.  I cannot thank them enough for the uncomfortable places their editors and contributors take me in my parenting journey.
• Somehow Sam knows all the words to the original Wavin' Flag by K'Naan and I die a thousand deaths listening to him ride up and down our street shouting the lyrics:  "Learn from these street, it can be bleak / Accept no defeat, surrender, retreat...."   Sing it, Child.

 

 

The Buying and the Storing

This is the place that most of my apparel fabric lives.  In theory, it should all fit into that basket.  Unfortunately, I'm always tearing through there and so it ends up looking like this a lot of the time.  There's more to the right (out of the frame) but it's heavier stuff.  I keep knits and linen rolled and stuffed in a bin. 

I have gotten much better at buying fabric over time.  While I sometimes feel like I have more than I'll ever use, I'm usually all right with the stuff I chose to keep and buy.  Usually.  I try to keep in mind to only buy things that I will absolutely 100% love-- even if I'm making something for someone else.  This shouldn't be so hard to get my head around, but you'd be surprised at how often I'm grabbing stuff with one of my sisters or friends in mind.  The problem is, I don't always get around to using it for them.  (OR worse-- "It's so cheap!  How could I not?"  I'll tell you why you shouldn't, Crazy.) 

But, like I said, I'm getting better.  I go for long stretches without getting anything new, and at the moment I'm doing a good amount of sewing.  Here's my thinking about buying beyond that (especially if I don't have a specific pattern in my hand):

• If it's quilt weight, then only 1/3 a yard.  Max.  I get a half if I'm thinking about accenting kids clothes (or whatever), but I try to keep those quilt weight cottons for things other than apparel.  Remembering this has cut WAY DOWN on yardage consumption.
• Buying fabric for clothes gets easier the longer that I sew as you start thinking like a envelope back.  Gwen has created some pretty comprehensive tables for figuring this stuff out and she also has handy yardage cards to buy!  I usually go something like this-- 1 1/2 yards for a skirt; 1-1 1/2 for a shirt (depending on width and sleeves or not); 2-3 for a dress.  Beyond that, I should probably put it away because I'm not going to use it.  
• Here is a lovely, illustrated (and printable!) guide for upholstery yardage.  I love it mainly because it reinforces the fact that I have NO DESIRE to recover furniture.  At all.  I will leave that to my girl, Blair.

I keep way too many scraps.  I still make ill-advised purchases.  My shelves get messy pretty quickly (I store most quilt weight or smaller pieces folded by colour).  I drive myself and the person I share this room with crazy (it's our bedroom after all).  Here are a few more pictures of things on shelves for those of you interested in that sort of thing.  It's, you know, very lived in at the moment. I hope you weren't expecting any different.